Dr. Claudia Schulz, also known as “Dr. Shoe,” is a shoe expert, press spokesperson for the German Association of the Footwear and Leather Industry and the “German Shoe Institute,” moderator, trend consultant, blogger, and freelance journalist. Her mission: shoes! Dr. Schulz asks Christof Bär, Managing Director of the BÄR Manufaktur, several questions about sustainability, the company’s philosophy, leather, and many other aspects. Read the complete interview here!
What does BÄR Shoes stand for? What idea lies behind the brand?
Christof Bär: We grew up with the principle of uncompromising Toe freedom. My father (Christian Bär) traveled extensively for work, spending a lot of time at trade fairs—in other words, a lot of time on his feet—and would come home in the evenings with back pain, exhaustion, and fatigue. He could not find shoes in which he could walk without pain. He was looking for a shoe without a Heel that offered the foot plenty of Toe freedom. In principle, the sensation should be like walking barefoot, with the added benefit of the necessary cushioning. Since he could not find suitable shoes for these requirements, and was certain that many others were living with the same problems and could benefit from a solution, my father ultimately developed them himself and initially had them manufactured on a contract basis. In Pirmasens, he found the necessary expertise in making lasts, and began production at a small company in the Swabian Alb with an initial 50 pairs of men’s shoes. At first, they were available only in black; later, a second color and women’s shoes were added. Today, a collection comprises 130 models, with 30% new developments per season. We were overwhelmed by the positive response. Yesterday as today, our customers appreciate the exceptional, immediately noticeable comfort of BÄR shoes: breaking them in is not necessary with our shoes.
What makes a BÄR shoe so unique, and how does it differ from other brands?
Christof Bär: It is the original principle of Toe freedom. While the toes are squeezed in many other shoes and thereby severely restricted in their natural movement, the toes can move freely in a BÄR shoe and the foot can roll naturally, as when walking barefoot. The shoe is stable and supportive at the heel, while toward the toes, where the bones become increasingly delicate, it offers optimal flexibility. If you place a BÄR shoe next to a competitor’s shoe, you will notice not only the unique shape providing Toe freedom, but also many small details that set our shoes apart. For example, we use double stitching where others do not, giving the shoe greater quality as well as a distinctive appearance and supporting its function. For cost reasons, many competitors cut back on their products here.
Today, we are talking about sustainability.
Today, we are talking about sustainability.
What makes BÄR Shoes a sustainable brand or a sustainable, valuable product?
Christof Bär: The basic idea of sustainability is first and foremost that a product should last a long time. The less often I have to replace a product, the less waste I generate. One aspect of the complex topic of sustainability is manufacturing a product with a long service life. We have followed this principle from the very beginning. Our motto is: durable rather than disposable. BÄR shoes last two to four times longer than conventional shoes.
Christof Bär: The basic idea of sustainability is first and foremost that a product should last a long time. The less often I have to replace a product, the less waste I generate. One aspect of the complex topic of sustainability is manufacturing a product with a long service life. We have followed this principle from the very beginning. Our motto is: durable rather than disposable. BÄR shoes last two to four times longer than conventional shoes.
Consequently, when creating our collections, we are always committed to ensuring that our durable shoes also meet fashion requirements for longer than just one season. In addition, we offer a three-year warranty that goes beyond the statutory requirement.
In this context, people often talk about “Slow Fashion”—would you agree that BÄR shoes are durable?
Christof Bär: Absolutely—that is part of our philosophy. That is why our materials are also of such high quality that they can withstand long-term use—from Lining in leather uppers to soles that, as wear parts, can also be replaced.
Where are BÄR shoes produced?
Why in India?
Christof Bär: We began looking for alternatives at an early stage in order to secure the craftsmanship necessary for our shoes. What began as production of shoe uppers developed from the original joint venture in India into our own subsidiary manufacturing complete shoes. The reason for taking this step and operating the facility ourselves in India was our high quality standards and the availability of highly trained craftspeople. This level and our compliance can be maintained only if we have direct influence over all processes. To this day, we find highly motivated employees who quickly integrate into the manufacturing process. In Germany, the profession of shoemaker has unfortunately become rare and has increasingly lost its appeal, so it is hardly taught anymore. The shortage of skilled workers is evident here as well.
Apart from that, we have been manufacturing for 25 years in our own factory in India, which we built from the ground up. This means that we have 100% influence over the conditions on site. In addition to safety, this also creates a high degree of flexibility, allowing us to produce in small batches. We source most of our materials from Europe, including leather from small tanneries in Germany and moose leather from Scandinavia. These very demanding, highly natural leathers with minimal finishing, such as deer, moose, and mouflon leather, can be processed by very few shoe manufacturers. At our headquarters in Bietigheim-Bissingen, we still have facilities for shoe production. In addition to the repair workshop, prototypes are made here. This was and remains a major advantage, particularly during the coronavirus period. Alongside the flexibility, it is a great opportunity for our employees to demonstrate their expertise. In this context, however, I must point out how difficult it is to recruit skilled workers in Germany for shoe manufacturing. Fortunately, we have a very good team in India with the corresponding expertise. Many employees have been with us since the beginning and continue to add to their extensive experience every day.
How do you implement sustainability at your factory in India? And how do you create transparency within the company as well as for the public and customers?
Christof Bär: First of all, I would like to emphasize the close connection between India and Bietigheim-Bissingen. There is no separation. The same values and rules apply in both places. BÄR Shoes could be described as an international company with German roots. I am personally on site at least six times a year, and I always feel this sense of belonging, which is particularly important to me. Our current production building in India was inaugurated in 2012—with the same standards as in Germany for workplace design from the very beginning. The office design was also planned based on our office in Bietigheim. Resource-conserving and energy-efficient processes are the focus. This applies, for example, to the production halls, which have environmentally friendly epoxy-resin floors to prevent dust and ensure hygiene. We have our own wastewater treatment plant and cover 50% of our energy needs through photovoltaics. We are currently planning to install additional panels here to increase this percentage further. Our social standards are also of the highest level. Within the company, the Council of Representatives addresses employees’ concerns and jointly seeks solutions and communication with management. We take responsibility for the people who work for us. Fair production and working conditions are a matter of course for us. Our employees are picked up from home in company buses and taken to the factory. Solar-powered lamps donated by Baer India provide greater safety on the public paths around the factory. We are also involved in water treatment and, for example, donated water filters to a school for deaf and mute children that we support. Our compliance with standards and norms is regularly reviewed by independent institutions and certified according to ISO standards in the areas of social responsibility*, safety*, quality*, and environmental management*. In terms of working conditions, I would even describe BÄR Shoes as a pioneer in India. We practice what is known as work-life balance: We offer our employees periods of recuperation and relaxation, including guided gymnastics exercises to music twice a day, as well as healthy food such as fresh milk in the morning, which is scarce and expensive in India.
Regarding your question about transparency: We see it as our foremost task to counter the poor image of shoe production in India, which is unfortunately often distorted by the media. We cannot change the world, but within our capabilities, we can contribute something. As mentioned earlier, it is the close and direct cooperation that leads to a form of synchronization. For example, Indian employees have exchanged ideas with colleagues here on site, and German employees have done the same in India. We carry out exciting projects with German students in India and vice versa, giving them a behind-the-scenes look. What matters to us is the person behind the product. That is important!
*Explanation of the standards at the end of the interview.
What is your position on the Supply Chain Act?
Christof Bär: We have always done everything required by it anyway. This proved particularly useful during the coronavirus period. Relevant audits demonstrate transparency. If requested, we can provide complete, verifiable traceability of the supply chain.
In addition, during the coronavirus period we continued paying all employees in India 100%. In Germany, we avoided almost all reductions in pay due to short-time work by using vacation days and reducing overtime balances. We feel responsible for the supply chain and our employees even without the law.
Sustainability also means social responsibility. You say that, as a medium-sized company, employee responsibility is particularly close to your heart. What exactly does that mean?
Christof Bär: At our factory in India, we take responsibility for our employees and their families. This includes, for example, pension and health insurance.
And at the company headquarters in Bietigheim-Bissingen?
Christof Bär: Our goal is to employ and retain all employees at the company over the long term. In Bietigheim-Bissingen, 128 employees work mainly in logistics and administration. We do not have large departments and operate in a very versatile and flexible way. Our working relationships are collaborative. Whenever necessary, everyone can step in for someone else.
Let’s return to the product. What materials are used to make Bär shoes? Where do the materials come from? (Resources)
Christof Bär: We primarily process leather because, in terms of its properties, it most closely resembles human skin. This applies especially to biomechanical aspects. Leather is characterized by breathability, flexibility, and softness. It is also very strong and durable. Therefore, leather is our number-one material and cannot be replaced by anything else. We primarily use calfskin, both as an upper material and as Lining. Unlike many other shoe manufacturers, we deliberately use high-quality, unfinished calfskin as Lining, so that full breathability for an optimal foot climate is maintained over many years. The leathers we process comply with the strictest European regulations. We work exclusively with tanneries audited according to the LWG standard and know almost all suppliers personally. I personally visit every tannery we would like to work with. We also conduct regular tests and random sampling at independent institutes, both in India and here on site.
The topics of sneakers and light trekking shoes are currently being discussed extensively. Do you also see alternative high-tech materials here that offer their own advantages? Do you use these as well?
Christof Bär: Yes, we already have several models in our range, such as shoes with uppers made from recycled PET bottles. We are responding to increasing demand through these products and the continued development of new materials.
Leather has come under criticism unfairly. Why is leather a sustainable material?
Christof Bär: Leather is a high-quality and durable material. What many people do not know is that leather is a by-product of the meat industry and is therefore inherently part of an upcycling process. No animal has to die for a shoe or a belt. It would actually be wasteful not to use the leather—there are countries where things are handled differently and leather is burned, turning it into a waste product. That is anything but sustainable. As already mentioned, it is characterized by breathability and durability. Leather is allowed to develop and age. And when a leather shoe is genuinely no longer wearable after being resoled, it can retire. Shoes that are disposed of by us as beyond repair are often still put to good use, where they may continue to be used.
With appropriate care, leather is a durable material. But shoes consist of many components. Shoes wear out. How can I preserve a valuable shoe? (Warranty, repair service)
Christof Bär: Preserving value is our priority. It starts with the product, which is made of high-quality, durable materials, and includes cedarwood shoe trees, which help absorb moisture from the shoe and smooth the leather again after wearing. We help customers keep their BÄR shoes for a long time. That is why we also offer environmentally friendly care products and horsehair brushes, which can be used to work care products into the pores of the leather. All of this can sometimes double a shoe’s service life.
As mentioned earlier, BÄR shoes come with a three-year warranty. That is exceptional, but we have absolute confidence in our product. The BÄR repair service is also very popular. All BÄR shoes can be resoled and refurbished right down to the laces, so that they are practically like new and can begin their second life. We compare this to a complete overhaul or the replacement of wear parts, such as tires on a car. This service is frequently used. Anyone who has purchased a favorite pair of BÄR shoes can therefore wear them for a long time. That is sustainability, too.
And yet, as an entrepreneur, you are surely interested in people buying a new pair of BÄR shoes from time to time. You are considered innovative. You succeed in combining fashion and comfort.
But do innovation, fashion, and sustainability really fit together?
Christof Bär: Short-lived fashion and short-term selling do not correspond to our philosophy. We have confidence in our shoes and the BÄR brand, and we want to convey this confidence to our customers. Our promise is that our shoes are better than others. We cover every category, from slippers to business shoes. We often meet customers who, after buying their first pair of BÄR shoes, replace their entire shoe wardrobe because they no longer want to forgo comfort on any occasion.
We grow thanks to our loyal customers, who are so convinced and enthusiastic about BÄR shoes that they recommend our brand to others. BÄR shoes are a way of life, not a fleeting trend product that provides momentary satisfaction for a few weeks. We have a genuine community of fans. Beyond Germany, we are very strong in France, England, Austria, and Switzerland. BÄR shoes are also highly accepted in Japan, and our shoes are in demand in Kuwait and many other countries. We also see potential in Scandinavia and the Benelux countries.
Regarding innovation: We are very willing to experiment, for example when it comes to new soles. This currently concerns sports shoes that we equip with extremely lightweight, abrasion-resistant soles made from PU/TPU compounds. We are also innovative in the socially relevant area of trekking and hiking. Here, for example, we combine leather with high-quality high-tech materials. As already mentioned, our sneakers also use recycled materials from PET bottles, among others. Thanks to our many years of experience in the procurement market, we know which suppliers can implement our ideas.
Regarding fashion: Short-lived, fast-moving fashion trends are not our thing. Our shoes should remain relevant for more than one season. This applies in particular to our unique lasts, which offer 100% uncompromising Toe freedom. We respond to current fashion, for example, with seasonal color and material themes.
Regarding sustainability: Thinking across generations is a fundamental principle for us. We want to leave the world in a better condition than we found it. From raw materials to resources, we do not take away anything that could be lacking in the future.
*Explanation of the ISO standards:
certified in the areas of social responsibility (CSR), safety (OHSAS/ISO 18001), quality (ISO 9001:2015), and environmental management (ISO 14001:2015)
